Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Le Viaggia Voyat - from wd 1/10/2009

Ezio Voyat "Le Muraglie" Rosso 2000

Voyat. I was familiar with the name. There was a picture of the grand old man in Burton Anderson's long out of print Wines of Italy. There was a mention of the legendary Chambave Rouge in Neal Rosenthal's memoir. And there was a listing for this wine on an otherwise non-Valle d'Aosta focused list in Manhattan.

"How is the Voyat?" I asked the sommelier.

"What?"

I know from experience that it is easy to lose track of a large wine list. You put 2 or 3,000 wines on a list, and you know, some of them just sort of, well, get forgotten about. I hazarded another try: "How is the Ezio Voyat red, the Valle d'Aosta red?" The reply was straightforward: "I have no idea what you are talking about." So there we were, none of us having tried a Voyat, and one ripe for the picking. "Bring me this wine here, and an extra glass for yourself, and we will all try it together," perhaps one of the better decisions I have made in awhile.

Because the wine is delicious. Utterly delicious.

Imagine an alpine Desvignes.

Imagine cut and minerality so intertwined with broad layers of fruit that you can't see the edges, can't find the place where one stops and the other begins.

Imagine a wine that is perfumed inside its texture, on the palate more than the nose.

Imagine Yum. Big Yum.

Some people drinking this brought up Carema. Others mentioned Dolcetto from Alba. It turned out that the wine in our bottle was a blend of Petit Rouge, Gros Vien, and Dolcetto. Funny that I hadn't thought to say Gros Vien originally.

Voyat died in 2003, in his 80's. The wines are currently being produced by his widow and daughter, and up until recently, they were imported to the United States. As far as I know, that is no longer true.

Our 2000 was a vino di tavola, with no vintage given on the label outside of a Lot number.

I long to drink it again.

4 comments:

Adam said...

Domenico Valentino is the importer. They have a retail store called Vino on 27th Street in Manhattan.

Levi with an i said...

Thanks for your comment, Adam.

The last time I spoke with Nicola Marzovilla, the owner of Domenico Valentino, he said that he had decided to stop bringing in Voyat.

Charlie Woods said...

These wines ARE amazing! The winery also produced a dry white from Moscato if I'm not mistaken and back in the nineties I remember loving this wine, but it's been a long time Their moscato passito dessert wine is also exceptonal Le Muraglie Ambrato Levi if he's no longer importing them you'd better see what he has left and grab some!

Adam said...

Hi Levi,

I work for DV, and I brought out the moscato secco last week (to lots of oohs & aahs). But Jim Hutchinson told me that this might be the last vintage we carry because we can't get enough details about the winemaking from the Widow Voyat. They are outsourcing it to a Piemontese guy, it seems.

Charlie, I'll find you next time I have it open. It kills.

Adam (formerly of TWB).