|Looking out from the courtyard of Marcarini.|
Every so often I come across a vintage of Marcarini "Brunate" Barolo with serious age on it. Marcarini, which is based in La Morra, has been making a labelled wine from that famed cru since 1958. Recently I got a chance to see the old cellar space at Marcarini, still in use today, where those mature vintages were housed in cask.
Prior to the late 1980's the winemaking at Marcarini was done by Elvio Cogno, who went on to purchase his own estate in Novello in 1990. You can see the change on the old labels of Marcarini Brunate: the 1985 lists Cogno's name and the 1988 does not.
The old cellar at Marcarini occupies an ex-monastery confine, and the large Slovenian oak botti housed there are over 40 years old. These are the same botti that Cogno would have used for some of his best wines at Marcarini.
When visiting these botti I had the same sense I had when I first saw a 1967 Chevy Camaro up on the blocks: here was once a King of the Road.
Outside the cellar everything is tranquil.