|The 1995 was the first vintage of ca' mia that was released by Brovia.|
Looking back to benchmarks, Alex mentions that 1998 showed "a perfect picture of each cru - each show's its character." It is beyond interesting to taste the four cru Barolos of Brovia in any vintage, because each is vinified in the same manner: spontaneous fermentation in cement tanks, a 3 week maceration of the skins achieved through pumping over, and ageing in wooden botti of the same size. The means used are the same for each of the cru bottlings: Garblet Sue (which is from Bricco Fiasco), Villero, Rocche, and ca' mia. So it really is the vineyard that shows the difference in any given vintage. Of course it is hard to sum up those differences in words, at least for me. I found it noteworthy that Alex said in his opinion Rocche is the cru that changes the most in flavor profile from vintage to vintage.
The ca' mia, based around Serralunga fruit from the Brea vineyard, does often seems like an outlier from the rest of the group, as all three of the others are in Castiglione Falletto. Sometimes when I drink ca' mia the closest cognate for me is actually Cappellano, whose Rupestris is also from Serralunga fruit.
|Brovia's 2008 ca' mia Barolo.|
We also tasted from cask a couple of 2010 Barolos from Brovia on this visit (the 2010 ca' mia is spectacular, btw), a 2009 ca' mia, and returned to a host of 2007s in bottle. Perhaps because I had liked the 2007 Brovia Barolos so much amongst the context of other 2007 Barolos, I had high hopes. I was thinking that perhaps the wines would have quieted down over the course of the year, lost some of their tutti frutti character, and become drier and you know what? I was wrong. That didn't really happen. Perhaps because we tasted the 2007s after the 2008s, the fruit of the 2007s seemed expansive, and still somewhat facile, at least in the case of the Villero and the Garblet Sue. But it is still early days, and we are talking about long ageing Barolo for heaven's sake, so maybe I should wait for more than just one year to make pronouncements. I sure did think that the 2007 ca' mia made a strong argument for the greatness of ca' mia, even when from a vintage that I just don't really care for. I'd still hazard to say that the 2007s from Brovia are some of the better Barolos from that year, so far as that goes.
This is the other reason I don't have any pictures of that bottom parcel for you: trying to take a picture down there would be perilous. You are at a disadvantage just trying to stand up straight. But let me tell you, there are some low trees and bushes and then a clearing opens up and it looks like an old Roman terraced vineyard. And it looks like a sun trap. At any rate, it is pretty cool. If you can make it down there, definitely check it out.
Which is what I would say about Brovia in general: check it out. This a producer turning out some tremendous wines.