Sunday, July 22, 2012

One interesting wine: Overnoy Vin Jaune

Joe Salamone was nice enough to open up this bottle of 1999 Overnoy Vin Jaune while I was around recently, and it got me to thinking. Everything about wine is getting younger, except our conception of Vin Jaune. With Vin Jaune we still conjure up an idea like Wallace Stevens: sure there might be flashes of inspiration early on, but the full genius waits to be half a century old. Today though there are plenty of counterexamples to the old idea of old Vin Jaune, and maybe too many exceptions to prove a rule. Tournelle, Tissot, Ganevat, and Overnoy: they all produce a Vin Jaune that doesn't require or even necessarily expect old age. Each can be a child prince.

Presumed definitions are the hardest things to change in the categorization of wines. The wines themselves are much more malleable.

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