Tuesday, December 18, 2012
A wine might change less than a winemaker
started working with the wines in 1994.
It was so interesting to see how a Jean-Marie Fourrier wine has developed, and also to see how his own winemaking style has evolved from what it was. Because this was a wonderful wine, but it tasted perhaps a bit more conventional than I might associate with Fourrier today. I got the same character of fruit that I might get from this same site and producer in a current release, but the handling was different. There seemed to be clearly defined edges, and more broad, burnished fruit than one might expect from the light touch of Fourrier today. It was as if Pousse d'Or had gone a bit north for a moment and made a wine from Clos St Jacques. There wasn't the disolved CO2 spritz, or the low sulphur directness to the flavors.
One of the hallmarks of a Fourrier wine today is how the fruit can hit the palate. It is for me the same as when very cold water is poured over my hand. There is a sting. Not a burning, warm, broad feeling, but instead a surprise that wakes me up. The fruit is like that on a Fourrier from, say, 2008. The pulse of my palate moves faster when I taste it. I am paying attention. If before I was watching from a distance, now I am close up.
The 1995 was excellent, but it was produced by a Burgundian. Later on he would produce wines as Jean-Marie Fourrier.