Monday, December 3, 2012

Stern, but with a twinkle in the eye

I tasted this wine recently, the 1997 Praesidium Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from Enzo Pasquale, and I was reminded of Valentini. And then of Pepe. And for a moment of Marina Cvetic. All of them. Not all at the same time, but for a brief instant, each in turn. There was an element of Illuminati there, which followed a touch of Torre dei Beati. I wouldn't say that the Praesidium was the same as any of those other wines, it wasn't. And they aren't the same as each other, of course. It would be very possible to distinguish one from another in a blind tasting. But what I mean to say is that there was something in a sip of that wine that reminded me of every other Montepulciano d'Abruzzo I have ever had ever. It was a visit to a distant town where the inhabitants seem to be the same in how they are different from you. A bit reserved, in the case of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, but forceful. A rare combination of a stern personality and a twinkle in the eye. With an exoticism in the accents.

A wine that reflects on it peers, its place and period. Distinctively of a group. Maybe that is the best kind of typicite.